by Springfield Lewis/Gulf Seafood News
Louisiana is an economic ecosystem of wetlands, waterways and generations that work them. A place where the livelihoods of commercial fishermen, seafood processors and restaurateurs all intertwine. Linking them all—from Lake Pontchartrain to the Atchafalaya Basin to the Gulf Coast—is a life source.
“Everything is tied to the water,” said Tracy Kuhns, President of the GO FISH Coalition, formed after the BP oil spill in 2010 as an advocate for commercial fishing. “It’s just part of your everyday life. The way you live.”
Industry Advocates
These days, fishing for a living can be harder than normal, as evidenced by storms that continue to ravage the industry and reverse fortunes. Businesses have yet to recover from the devastation of Hurricane Ida, a Category 4 storm. The aftermath still scars the state.
Wearing the Gulf Seafood Foundation’s “Helping Hands” glove, Michael Roberts, Oyster Program Manager at GO FISH, said disaster recovery for the commercial fishing community is the role of the organization. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News
Its destruction compounded earlier damage from hurricanes Laura, Delta and Zeta. Occurring in 2020 and 2021, those four storms caused $579 million in losses, according to Louisiana Wildlife & Fisheries.
Seven months after Ida, Kuhns reflects on the long-term impact, noting “the economic base is the natural resources down here.” One needs the other intact to survive, to prosper.
“Captain Mike and his wife Tracie have passion and dedication to preserve the seafood heritage of the Barateria-Jean Lafitte area,” said Ewell Smith, a member of the Gulf Seafood Foundation and Louisiana Fishing Community Recovery Coalition.
Roberts said disaster recovery for the commercial fishing community is the role of the organization. After the BP spill the “GO FISH Coalition was instrumental in instituting the Vessels Opportunity Program, which put fishermen to work. A shrimp boat in Barataria lays on its side seven months after Hurricane Ida. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News
Smith said after a five hour boat tour of the damage of Hurricane Ida,” It was heartbreaking to see the amount of work still needing to be done. Things as basic as clearing waterways of debris so the larger boats can pass. They can’t help wondering what will come of their community which depends solely on fishing. You can see it weighs on them – heavily. They simply ask, ‘what will our people do going forward?'”
Michael Roberts, Oyster Program Manager at GO FISH, said disaster recovery for the commercial fishing community is the role of the organization. After the BP spill, for instance, “GO FISH Coalition member organizations were instrumental in instituting the Vessels Opportunity Program, which put fishermen to work. Additionally, GO FISH worked with Kerry Kennedy and RFK for Justice in obtaining 1.5 million in funding for a local community health clinic which included an OEM evaluation for VOO workers and community members.”
As a nonprofit, GO FISH is not well known, Roberts points out. Even with its low profile, “we’re best advocates you never heard of ‘Cause that’s what we do.”
Cage-cultured Oysters
Michael Roberts, Oyster Program Manager at GO FISH, said disaster recovery for the commercial fishing community is the role of the organization. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News
Case in point: The Louisiana Oystermen’s Association won a lawsuit for damages done to natural oyster reefs. With the award money, GO FISH devised an innovative solution to benefit growers and harvesters.
Administering a new program, Roberts and GO FISH plan to teach young oyster farmers how to cultivate cage-cultured shellfish, which are raised in elevated beds made of mesh.
Before Hurricane Ida, GO FISH had leased five locations in the Grand Isle Oyster Parks for floating farms. The storm devastated the area and disrupted plans, however.
Water Quality Upmost
As storms disturb Louisiana’s economic ecosystem, ensuing water quality remains vital for not only the oyster industry, but for the state’s other fisheries as well. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News
Like commercial fishing throughout Louisiana, Roberts said “we got to get our lives back in order.” GO FISH is regrouping now to move forward with the cage-cultured program there. Once oyster seeds are received, one or two test sites will be set up.
As storms disturb Louisiana’s economic ecosystem, ensuing water quality remains vital for not only the oyster industry, but for the state’s other fisheries as well.
After raising cage-cultured oysters for five years, Roberts knows their volatility. “Water quality is of upmost importance. It’s truly the canary in the mine.” And that holds true for bottom oysters, too.
Industry Insurance
As Roberts and Kuhns know too well, the large-scale risks of commercial fishing are amplified as more hurricanes and other disasters occur. The severity and frequency of storms take a toll. And that begs the question of affordable insurance, which isn’t developed yet in Louisiana.
The East Coast Shellfish Growers Association has worked intently to secure insurance for oyster farmers of all types. Harvester working at 38 Degree Oysters in the Chesapeake Bay. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood news
It’s different other places, though. The East Coast Shellfish Growers Association, for example, has worked intently to secure insurance for oyster farmers of all types, said Roberts. “They know insurance is a huge problem for cage growers.”
Recently passed federal legislation provides new options, where oysters farmers can recover the basic cost of seed. For premium coverage, the greater value involved in cultivating oysters can be insured.
The issue here, however, is proper document by oyster farmers to prove their investments over the years, said Kuhns. The work, which is done today, is labor intensive. New technology, such as Blue Trace, enables this documentation to be done more easily.
Restoration of Coastline and Fisheries
The advocacy work of GO FISH began with restoring Louisiana’s coastline and rebuilding its fisheries. Twelve years later, the nonprofit still focuses on preserving habitats and serving commercial fishing communities.
Kuhns said diversions would impact recreational fishing, charters and tourism. GO FISH’s perspective for prosperity takes in the entire economic ecosystem. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News
Regarding coastline restoration, Kuhns said GO FISH’s philosophy differs from other organizations, such as promoted by the Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA), a state entity.
“They think we need big, massive diversions, and we believe it will cause further harm to our fisheries, our habitat and fishing communities, in particular, and our families.”
In addition to damaging commercial fishing, Kuhns said these diversions would impact recreational fishing, charters and tourism. GO FISH’s perspective for prosperity takes in the entire economic ecosystem.
Kuhns believes: “Everything is tied to the water—fresh, brackish and salt.”
As a life source, it’s used by everyone, and must be preserved for all.
Carrying on, Generation after Generation
In Louisiana, commercial-fishing livelihoods rise and fall with the water. Shift with the wind.
Michael Roberts with his grandson Scott Sugasti, a young fishermen who has been crabbing on his own since high school. Photo: Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News
To hear Tracy Kuhns, President of GO FISH, tell it: “Everything you do is connected in these communities to the tide cycles. What’s going on with the weather.”
And it’s also where business is family. And where the work and lineage come together.
“My grandson is sixth generation on his dad’s side,” Kuhns said. “That’s a lot of years, handed down through traditional methods. Not through academia. But passed down through generation after generation.”
So it goes for Louisiana fishermen. Braving the water and wind. Carrying on, with heritage and heart.
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