Chef Anthony Spizale (l), the executive chef at New Orleans Marriott Metairie, and Chef Tenney Flynn, executive chef and owner of GW Fins, see eye-to-eye on the fact that Gulf seafood is the finest ever coming out of the Gulf of Mexico.. Photo: Ed Lallo/Newsroom Ink
by Ed Lallo/Gulf Seafood News Editor
As October drew to a close and stories of ghosts and goblins put away for another year, we also say good-bye to National Seafood Month. Gulf Seafood News gathered the thoughts of two prominent New Orleans chefs on Gulf seafood as they cooked National Seafood Month to a close at a recent event held at the Whole Foods Metairie store.
Since launching GW Fins in the heart of the city’s French Quarter more than ten years ago, Chef Tenney Flynn has developed a reputation as one of the most knowledgeable and discriminating seafood chefs in the country. Photo: Ed Lallo/Newsroom Ink
Since launching GW Fins in the heart of the city’s French Quarter more than ten years ago, Chef Tenney Flynn has developed a reputation as one of the most knowledgeable and discriminating seafood chefs in the country. Cooking beside him in a benefit dinner for Louisiana Sea Grant, LSU AgCenter, and Audubon G.U.L.F was Chef Anthony Spizale, the executive chef at New Orleans Marriott Metairie. Spizale is renowned for creating exciting menus using Gulf seafood at the Omni Hotel’s Rib Room and at Manning’s before settling at the Marriott.
Both chefs admit that the last few years have been challenging for a number of Gulf species, especially oyster, crab and shrimp.
It has been a rough season for oysters, it is a little bit scary,” said Chef Spizale as he cooked a Crispy Gulf Oyster dish for the gather crowd. Photo: Ed Lallo/Newsroom Ink
“It has been a rough season for oysters, it is a little bit scary,” said Chef Spizale as he cooked a Crispy Gulf Oyster dish for the gather crowd. “Hopefully oysters are still going to be around by Thanksgiving so we can have our traditional New Orleans oyster dressing.”
Chef Flynn agrees that the last few years have not been great for the oyster industry. “It is going to take some recovery time after the BP spill, will have to wait and see.” The New Orleans chef known for serving non-traditional fish on his menu rarely serves oysters before mid-November because he wants “the big fat ones”.
“This has been a great opportunity to learn how seafood is sourced locally and various ways to enjoy Gulf species at home, while benefitting a great cause,” said Kristina Bradford, Louisiana community and media relations coordinator for Whole Foods Market. Photo: Ed Lallo/Newsroom Ink
When asked about a recent proposed oyster “megahatchery” by the Gulf Oyster Industry Council, he said that he fully supported such a concept.
“The more oysters the better, it’s a great idea,” he said waiting his turn to prepare a Sautéed Shrimp with Mirliton Slaw dish. “Anywhere oysters get established they clean the water, they can clean up almost anything. They also provide a reef structure for other aquatic life.”
Chef Spizale used National Seafood Month as a time to educate his staff and guests on “how special, how fresh, how safe and how perfect Gulf seafood is at this moment.” He said it is the food that chefs want to cook.
“We are offering a couple of fish specials a day on the menu,” he said. “We have shrimp three or four different ways. We also offer a number of crab and oysters dishes.”
The short supply of some Gulf seafood has made his job difficult at times he admits. “To me it has been a challenge because the limited availability of some Gulf seafood makes the price jump up and down,” he said. “One thing I can say is that the product we are getting is the finest I have ever seen come out of the Gulf of Mexico. It is pristine seafood right now. It is clean, it is fresh, it is handled well. It goes through so much inspection now since the oil spill that it has to be.”
One plentiful fish that has made its way off the overfished list is Gulf Red Snapper, a popular fish with restaurant patrons that Chef Flynn was waiting to prepare in a Sautéed Red Snapper with Spoonbread and Jumbo Lump Crab Butter Dish.
As an avid sport fishermen and scuba diver, he has watched with interest as the Gulf Council for years has struggled with allocation issues between the recreational and commercial sector. Waiting his turn to man the cooking burns by rows of baked bread, he gave an observation on what he personally sees on his adventures beneath Gulf waters.
“On a recent scuba diving trip to Pensacola the three fish I saw most were red snapper, amberjack and trigger fish,” he said. “You have to feel like somebody is doing the right thing when you see so many fish that were once in short supply.”
With the smell of Louisiana fried oysters filling the store, Chef Spizale explained that oysters are perfect for expectant moms and young children. Photo: Ed Lallo/Newsrooom Ink
He admits that he is not a “gloom and doom kind of guy”, but is concerned that the vast amount of Restore Act money set to hit the Gulf might be diverted to projects that will pit one fishery against another. Ideally this would be the perfect time for all Gulf fisheries to start to work in unison, but says with a smile on his face “good luck with that”.
With the smell of Louisiana fried oysters filling the store, Chef Spizale explained that oysters are perfect for expectant moms and young children. The chef, who describes himself as a good Italian on both sides of the family, said it is important for pregnant moms to eat more seafood to ensure proper brain development in the child.
“Mothers should stay away from raw seafood, but there are plenty of delicious options out there that can be prepared in interesting ways,” he said as he quickly removed a batch of oysters from the sizzling oil. “Gulf Tuna is an excellent example of a filet that can be prepared in a style perfect for pregnant moms.”
As the more than 50 local residents prepared to devour the seafood creations, Kristina Bradford, Louisiana community and media relations coordinator for Whole Foods Market said, “This has been a great opportunity to learn how seafood is sourced locally and various ways to enjoy Gulf species at home, while benefitting a great cause. We’ve truly enjoyed collaborating with our area chefs to share information on more responsible fishing methods and great recipes to cook with Gulf seafood.”
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