Jules Melancon raises one of the unique oyster cages designed especially for the Caminada Bay oyster farm project. Photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
by Ed Lallo/Newsroom Ink
The new growing method is more labor intensive. Worker place small seed oyster sin the growing cage. Photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
A little over two years ago Jim Gossen gave a talk to a group of Louisiana oystermen gathered on Grand Isle. He had filled boxes with the prettiest oysters from both the east and west coast. Beausoleil oysters in one little box, and Island Creeks in another.
Putting them on a table he told the group, “these oysters are three times better than yours, they must be because they are getting more than three times the price.”
Gossen didn’t realize it at the time, but this was his entrance into the world of oyster farming – the Grand Isle Caminada Bay Oyster Farm project.
“The oyster fisherman sure didn’t like what I was saying,” emphasized Gossen, founder and current chairman of Sysco Louisiana Foods. “I told them that it was time to start searching for a solution on how Louisiana oysters could compete with smaller, prettier oysters from the east and west coasts.”
A Cajun from Lafayette whose personal preference has always leaned toward large oysters, Gossen decided someone needed to take the lead. “I figured unless I put my money where my mouth is, nobody was going to prove that this would work,” he said.
If You Grow Them, I Can Sell Them
Melancon empties a batch of nursery grown oysters in preparation to be placed in growing cages in various growing areas in the historic bay. Photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
An old friend, and fourth generation oysterman, Jules Melancon had decided to sell his oyster boat and get out of the business due to financial reasons.
Upon hearing of the decision, Gossen persuaded Malacon not to sell his boat before taking a trip to Alabama, where research was being done by Auburn University Shellfish Laoratory on a new way to grow oysters.
“I remember driving down to Auburn’s shellfish lab, Jules was telling me he couldn’t see the point of the trip,” said Gossen. “After visiting the lab and seeing the growing cages in Grand Bay on the oyster farm of Steve Crockett, he told me while driving back that night – ‘I can do that. If you can sell them I can grow them.’”
Gossen told Malacon, “If you can grow them, I can sell them.”
The Caged Oyster
Taking pinhead size seed called spat from hatcheries, the young oysters grow in barrels till they reach a size that won’t fall through a ½ inch wire cage. Photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
The new growing method Malacon had seen was the use of oyster cages.
Taking pinhead size seed called spat from hatcheries, the duo grow the young oysters on the land in barrels till they reach a size that won’t fall through a ½ inch wire cage.
“We have a local crab trap manufacturer in Des Allemands make cages that we have designed for the project,” said Malacon. “The cage keeps predators from getting to the oysters while allowing them to grow in the wild.”
“The beauty of this system is that we can grow a high quality oyster in the wild where and when we want, as well as to the size we want.”
Working with the port commission on Grand Island, as well as the LSU Sea Grant Oyster Research Lab, the operation current growing in is six different areas; Independence Island, Barateria bay, Creole Bay, Beauregard Island, Champagne Bay and Caminada Bay.
Oyster grown in cages sitting on the gulf’s floor are no different from unprotected oysters according to Gossen. The oysters are grown in the same water with the same salinity, but the difference is how they are harvested.
Havesting by Hand
Most Louisiana oysters are harvested with a dredge, Caminada Bay’s are harvested by hand. Cages are raised to the surface and Melancon harvests the oysters that are the desired size. Photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
“Most Louisiana oysters are harvested with a dredge,” he explained. “Our oysters are harvested by hand. We raise the cage to the surface and only harvest oysters that are the desired size. We hand select each one, and they are beautiful to look at.”
These new two and a half to three inch Louisiana designer oysters are comparable in size and price to the premium priced oysters from the east and west coast. They also have new designer names.
“In the 1950’s the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries did a film on oystermen in Barateria Bay. Jules grandfather was in film. The film called the oysters gown in the bay the “aristocrat” of Louisiana oysters, hence that became the name of my leading selling oyster,” Gossen explained about his new marketing campaign.
New Names, Old Distinction
Gossen’s unique marketing of the hand-selected oyster include the “Oyster Dude” character which he created. Graphic: Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
With names like Aristocrat, Caminada Bay, Beauregard, Creaole Champagne, Gossen’s master plan is to return to names once synonymous with the Louisiana oyster industry.
“New York used to have fifty percent of the worlds oyster,” he explains. “They are all gone today. People say that can’t happen in Louisiana, but it can unless we look at new ways to ensure a steady supply.”
Auburn University’s Bill Walton did extensive research the size oyster people like to eat, two and a half to three inches is the size consumers enjoy most.
“We can grow a two and a half inch oyster in less than a year,” Melancon said. “On the east or west coast it takes more than three or four years.”
Melancon’s first harvest last year was more than 60,000 oysters, and true to his word Gossen was able to sell every one of them at more than double the price of a large Louisiana oyster – not an industry, but a start.
The Grand Isle oyster operation has not been without setbacks. In 2012 Hurricane Isaac damaged a portion of the crop.
High Profit Oysters
Gossen’s and Melancon’s oysters are not for everyone, especially the Acme’s and Drago’s of the world that thrive on high volume.
Gossen is convinced success is a marathon, never quick but steady. It is important to be an innovative leader, not a follower. The Caminada Bay hand select oysters are not only great tasting, but beautiful to look at. photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
“Our target audiences are high-end oyster bars or an exclusive steak house looking for a unique and tasty appetizer,” said Gossen. “Texans currently eat the majority of our Louisiana hand-picked oysters.”
Plans are already in place to expand the cage-raised oyster operations.
Working with LSU’s Oyster Research Center director Dr. John Supan and the Grand Isle Port Commission they are looking into suspended oyster cages, a project approved by the Louisiana legislature.
“Grand Isle has already set aside an area for raised oyster farming,” explained Gossen. “I am hoping to involve the local community in the project and call it ‘oyster gardening.’ Oyster would be grown similar to community gardens where tomato’s are raised, only in the water.”
There is no better seafood to grow than oysters according to him. They clean the water and require no feeding, however they are very labor intensive. As he expands the business he is searching for a processor willing to invest in the future.
Keeping Old Oyster Growing Areas Alive
As salt water continues to intrude into oyster growing areas, cage grown allows for oysters to be grown in areas they no longer can reproduce.
Gossen’s grandson John Hayes Waguespack enjoys one of grandpa’s hand select oysters while big brother Will watches. Photo: Jim Gossen/Caminada Bay Oyster Farm
Cages are now on Independence Island, an historic oyster growing area that used to send 1000 sacks of oyster to the French quarter every other day. Because of the salt water oysters no longer reproduce but remains a great area to grow them.
“Louisiana is losing a lot of its culture because the seafood is no longer there,” said Gossen remembering the past. “We need to manage the resource and this is an important way of doing it. This is a way to increase the number of oysters Louisiana can produce and keep the culture I so love.”
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